The wet and the dry of Andalusia
Andalusia has a very dramatic relationship with water. The region is famous for being hot and dry for most of the year. The hydrography here is basically a tale of two extremes. You have a few massive rivers that actually flow. Then you have thousands of smaller channels that look like they have forgotten their purpose in life. Most of the time these look more like dusty roads than water sources.
The big players in the north
The Guadalquivir is the king of Andalusian rivers. It is the only truly navigable river in Spain. It flows through Seville and provides a massive amount of water for farming and drinking. Without this river the region would probably just be one giant desert. Other rivers like the Guadiana and the Guadalhorce also try their best to keep things green. These main rivers are vital because they fill the reservoirs that keep everyone’s taps running during the long summers.
The mystery of the empty riverbeds
If you go for a walk in a coastal town you will likely see a giant concrete ditch. These are called arroyos. The word arroyo basically means a brook or a wash that only flows when it feels like it. Most of the year they are bone dry. Tourists often look at them and wonder why the Spanish have built massive empty swimming lanes through their towns. These riverbeds are not a mistake. They are a very necessary part of the landscape.
The Arroyo Real in Fuengirola
The Arroyo Real in Fuengirola is a perfect example of this seasonal moodiness. For most of the year it is a wasteland. You will see people walking their dogs or kids playing football in it. It is usually just a concrete channel that looks a bit sad and abandoned. It only fills with water after heavy rainfall in the nearby mountains. When that happens it stops being a park and starts being a very dangerous water slide.
Why they stay empty and concrete
You might think it would be nicer to turn these arroyos into gardens. That would be a terrible idea. These channels are flood safeguards. When a storm hits the water rushes down from the mountains with incredible force. The concrete bed is a modern design meant to get that water to the sea as fast as possible. This prevents the catastrophic flooding that used to destroy towns in the past. If you put trees or parks in there the water would just wash them away.
A brown surprise for the sea
When the Arroyo Real actually does its job it is quite a sight. It fills up rapidly and carries mud and debris down to the coast. The beautiful blue water of the Mediterranean often turns a murky brown at the mouth of the river. It is nature’s way of reminding us that it is still in charge. So if you see an empty riverbed in Andalusia do not feel sorry for it. It is just waiting for the next big storm to show everyone what it can really do.
