The long road to Monte
Monte, the lofty part of Funchal, was once the kind of place you only reached if you were very determined or had a donkey with good stamina. Perched high above the city, it spent centuries in splendid isolation, which sounds romantic until you realise it meant potholes, poor access and a general sense of being forgotten.
Things started to change in the late 19th century. In 1893, the Monte Railway was inaugurated, linking the centre of Funchal to Monte. It was a rack railway, which sounds fancy but mostly meant you could finally get up the hill without losing a lung. The line was extended in 1912 to Terreiro da Luta, but sadly, after a boiler explosion in 1919 and a general lack of enthusiasm, the railway was shut down in 1943.
Welcome to the 21st century
Fast forward to the 21st century and Monte is no longer the forgotten cousin of Funchal. The cable car, opened in 2000, changed everything. Now you can glide up in comfort while pretending you’re in a Bond film. The views are spectacular, the ride is smooth, and you don’t even need hiking boots.
The streets of Monte
Despite these improvements, Monte still has its quirks. Some streets look like they were designed by someone who hates cars. Narrow, winding and occasionally crumbling, they offer a thrilling experience for drivers who enjoy a challenge and don’t mind scraping their wing mirrors. Infrastructure is a mixed bag. The old train station has been restored and turned into a museum, which is lovely. But other parts of Monte still feel like they’re waiting for the 20th century to arrive.
Green spaces and emperors
Monte is also famous for its gardens and churches. The Monte Palace Tropical Garden is a lush paradise with exotic plants. The Church of Our Lady of Monte, rebuilt in the 18th century after an earthquake, is a pilgrimage site and the final resting place of Emperor Charles I of Austria. Yes, really.
Toboggans and tourism
The area has become a magnet for tourists, especially those who enjoy panoramic views and slightly terrifying toboggan rides. The wicker basket sledges, steered by men in straw hats and rubber boots, are a tradition that dates back to the 19th century. It’s fun, fast and mildly ridiculous.
Progress with a pinch of patience
In recent years, Monte has seen more investment and attention. The restored train station now hosts exhibitions and cultural events. The roads are slowly being improved, although “slowly” is doing a lot of heavy lifting in that sentence.
From donkey trails to cable cars
Monte has come a long way from its donkey-access-only days. It’s now a vibrant part of Funchal with history, charm and just enough chaos to keep things interesting. If you visit, bring your camera, your sense of humour and maybe a spare tyre.
